Reverse Appliqué
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Reverse appliqué is one of our signature techniques and can also be used for many projects. I have pillows, dresses, t-shirts and napkins that use reverse appliqué. Beading and adding multiple layers are additional ways to experiment with reverse appliqué. And aside from being very beautiful, it is also very easy to learn.
Supplies:
Cotton Jersey item
to Reverse Appliqué
Scrap cotton jersey fabric (1" larger all around than your reverse pattern)
Permanent marker,
Textile paint
or
spray paint
Embroidery Scissors
#9 Sharp Needle
Thread
Straight Pins
Instructions:
1) Transfer your stencil
Stencil (or freehand)
your design onto the face of the fabric using a sharpie marker or textile
spray paint.
2) Add Reverse Appliqué Fabric
Place backing fabric,
face up, behind area to be
appliquéd and pin to secure. The backing fabric should be a different color
than the main fabric and at least 1” larger than the stenciled design. Make
sure that your grain lines are running in the same direction.
3) Stitch
Thread your needle and
tie a double knot at the end. Leave a 1/2" tail on your knot. Choose a
starting place and stitch around every individual stenciled shape with a
straight stitch
(running stitch), making sure to tie off properly using a double knot (we
recommend stitches 1/4 inch in length). Do not move from one shape to the
next without tying off and starting with a fresh knot. This may seem like a
lot of work but it ensures that your garment will retain its stretch once
your project is complete.
4) Cut the
Reverse Appliqué
Insert your embroidery scissor tip into the center of your stitched shape being careful only to puncture the top layer of the fabric. This creates a hole to maneuver your scissors around to trim away the reverse. Now, trim away the entire inside of the shape, leaving behind an 1/8” of fabric beside your stitched outline. The 1/8” dimension is wide enough to prevent unraveling and small enough to display a good pattern. Make sure that you do not cut any closer than 1/8” to your seam as fabric will eventually tear away from stitching and leave a hole in your beautiful work.
Tips:
1) Dianne – one of our
seasoned Stitchers – has a suggestion for beginning Stitchers who fear they
may puncture both layers of fabric when cutting out their pattern. Before
you pin your reverse fabric to the back of your project make a small cut in
the center of the shape to be reversed. This way when you’re ready to cut
away the fabric you will have a place already cut to start. Just make sure
that your cut does not go beyond our 1/8” boundary.
2) For stencil shapes
that are very small (1/4” or smaller) don’t clip away the fabric. Just leave
the pattern as it is, and it becomes yet another decorative element.
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