MAKESHIFT + BILLY REID
Fellow designer and neighbor, William “Billy” Reid (“Nobody calls me William,” he says), and his business partners, Katy and K.P. McNeill, have been friends to Alabama Chanin for over a decade. We’ve watched each other grow our businesses and our community. We’ve worked together on countless projects and events over the years, including our favorite and most accomplished to date – growing Alabama cotton last summer.
Billy worked in the design industry for many years, launching his label, Billy Reid, in 2004. In February 2010, Billy was deemed GQ’s “Best New Menswear Designer in America.” In November of that same year, he won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, the first designer to ever receive both prizes in one year. In 2012, Billy received the CFDA’s “Menswear Designer of the Year” award. It is unprecedented for two designers in the same small Alabama town to both be prominent members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and we love that it’s Billy with whom we get to share this privilege.
Billy Reid has grown from their initial flagship store here in Florence, Alabama, and showroom in Manhattan, to ten storefronts across the southeast and Texas. His approach to classic American style with a touch of Southern charm extends beyond the clothing. Each Billy Reid space reflects this cultured style, from velvet upholstered antique chairs to the artwork and animal trophies on the walls, to the Persian rugs covering dark hardwood floors. It’s as if you are stepping into Billy’s home.
It is this Southern flair with a classic, modern aesthetic, excellent tailoring, and timeless design that sets Billy Reid apart from other designers. A bon vivant, Billy’s love of good music, good food, and conversation has made him an integral part in supporting and promoting local talent here in The Shoals, from bands to chefs to artists and photographers. Where MAKESHIFT represents shifting ideas on what it means to make and collaborate, Billy represents the core of the movement, intersecting fashion, food, design, craft, and music.
We are honored to have Billy participate in this year’s MAKESHIFT events. His tote for the Image Quilt represents the elements of design, manufacturing, fashion, and craft, each of which are present in his collections, from designing and manufacturing items that can be made responsibly, to using dead stock and non-traditional materials (like nutria fur), to sustaining traditional crafts like leatherworking, both in the United States and in Italy. He demonstrates that a successful business can grow out of an authentic voice and a desire for quality.
You can see Billy Reid’s crafted tote (above) on our MAKESHIFT Conversations Image Quilt.
MAKESHIFT + KRISTEN WENTRCEK
Kristen Wentrcek is the founder, owner, designer, and creative director of Wintercheck Factory, a Brooklyn, New York, manufacturer producing American-made, design-focused goods for living. Wintercheck Factory began designing and manufacturing furniture in 2009 and soon after, expanded into soft goods, including apparel, accessories, and home goods with a balance of aesthetic and functionality.
During MAKESHIFT 2013, Kristen Wentrcek joined us as a presenter and moderator for MAKESHIFT @ The Standard, an evening of conversation and making centered around the concepts of fashion, food, design, craft, and DIY and where they intersect. As a presenter, she helped lead the conversation, moving between three groups of makers and along with other presenters, shared her experiences with starting and running Wintercheck Factory, and how the elements of fashion, food, design, craft, and DIY have impacted her venture. She also re-crafted the above tote for the MAKESHIFT Conversations Image Quilt.
Kristen joins us today for a brief Q&A about Wintercheck Factory, making, American manufacturing, and MAKESHIFT.
AC: American manufacturing seems to be a core principal for Wintercheck Factory. You have a wonderful map of the U.S. on your website, marking all of the places your products are made. Was that level of transparency an initial goal, or did it come about after you started the business?
KW: I’ve always wanted to keep a level of transparency, not necessarily to make any sort of statement (although there are facets of it that are very important to me), but more because I love the entire process of having a product made. I try to go to as many factories as possible, partially because it is helpful to design better when you can see the actual machines and people that do the manufacturing and their limits, but also because there’s an aspect of discovery when you see how everyday products are actually made. I recently went to North Carolina to see a factory that is making a rocking chair for a furniture line that I’ve been working on. The owner was walking me around and we came to this huge long curved plywood form. As it turned out, it was the mold for the old wooden ski Nordic Track design! I think there’s something exciting about seeing the origins of everyday products and then being able to utilize the same techniques to make an entirely different product. I think you can start to appreciate products more, as you see the materials and techniques that go into making them. So it is partially about creating value through information and partially my own personal scrapbook. See photos here.
AC: You worked in real estate development before starting Wintercheck Factory. How has that experience influenced your present venture?
KW: I’ve always said that the process of having a product manufactured is similar to having a building made, minus the huge loans and massive team. Only in this situation, you’re the developer, architect and marketing team. The manufacturer is your different construction trades. It is not a complete direct translation, but I think that job gave me the right groundwork to figure out how to have a design fabricated on a small scale, when to take risks and how to budget it all.
AC: We love the bench you made for the MAKESHIFT Chair Workshop at Build It Green! NYC last May. Furniture was the first product Wintercheck Factory made. You also make really cool scarves and shower curtains with utility pockets. Do you see these items as a sort of furniture?
KW: I see them more as tools. I find it enjoyable to have cut and sew products manufactured because the investment is low, the turnaround is quick and they can be affordable to a wider audience. I also love the factory that I use in Greenpoint because the owners and the staff are so sharp and inventive. The opportunity to collaborate with them is sort of irresistible to me. Beyond that though, I think that by nature, furniture is a product that provides utility. So in the meantime while furniture is being developed, I’ve enjoyed injecting that quality into smaller products like the scarf and shower curtain, which both have storage pockets.
AC: What does MAKESHIFT mean to you, and how do the elements of fashion, food, design, craft, and/or DIY intersect for Wintercheck Factory?
KW: My understanding of MAKESHIFT is that it addresses the idea that ‘design’ is essentially everywhere, influencing everyone, all the time, from the shape of the spacebar on my keyboard to a George Nelson sofa, to a crocheted hat on Etsy.
AC: Tell us about your MAKESHIFT bag.
KW: In retrospect, I guess this is related to the third question! I took part of the fabric out of the right side and sewed it onto the front to create a pocket. Then I closed up the right side, sewing in a divider to hold change and pens.
You can see Kristen’s tote and all the MAKESHIFT totes as we add them to the MAKESHIFT Image Quilt.
MAKESHIFT 2013 TUMBLR IMAGE QUILT
This year, we expand ideas that were born from MAKESHIFT 2012 to create a global conversation among artists, designers, and makers. The first part of the MAKESHIFT 2013 SERIES took place at the Standard, East Village where panelists and conversation guides Cathy Bailey – Heath Ceramics, Rosanne Cash – Singer/Songwriter, Natalie Chanin – Alabama Chanin, Jessamyn Hatcher – Professor of Global Studies, NYU, Nathalie Jordi – People’s Pops/Writer/Author, Tift Merritt – Singer/Songwriter, Andrew Wagner – Krrb, and Kristen Wentrcek – Wintercheck Factory, shared their stories and experiences involving collaborative projects and making within their industries. Throughout the evening, guests were invited to express their thoughts from the conversations, literally or conceptually, using an organic cotton tote bag from Alabama Chanin as a blank canvas. A variety of materials were also provided to design, decorate, and customize each bag.
To further the conversation, Alabama Chanin, Heath Ceramics, and The Standard are proud to be partnering with Tumblr to expand the voice of the MAKESHIFT project globally. We have invited an additional 100 artists, designers, writers, musicians, chefs, and makers from across the planet to participate and contribute a photograph of their customized Alabama Chanin tote bag to a Tumblr Image Quilt: photographs of each bag create a piece, or square, published to a Tumblr page created specifically for the MAKESHIFT SERIES. We will add images to the Tumblr page as the conversation grows and photographs are submitted.
We have asked participants to keep the following in mind as they craft and design:
Everything we touch today has a global impact, which is only magnified by the Internet and ease of information exchange. Yet a long-time division and disconnect between each design industry still prevails over a quickly changing world, one in which innovation and collaboration define the future.
WHERE DO FASHION, FOOD, DESIGN, CRAFT + DIY INTERSECT?
HOW DO WE DEFINE AND TRANSFORM THE INTERSECTION OF FASHION, FOOD, DESIGN, CRAFT + DIY THROUGH INNOVATION AND COLLABORATION FOR THE BETTER GOOD?
Visit www.makeshift-conversations.tumblr.com to view the Image Quilt along with a list of participating artists, designers, and makers.
We welcome you to join the conversation by using #makeshift2013 on Tumblr and across all social media.