Standard Talks: Rosanne Cash
To begin the evening at MAKESHIFT @ the Standard Talks, Rosanne Cash opened with a performance of “Fair and Tender Ladies,” a traditional Appalachian folk song that has been recorded by many singers. The song had often been performed by her step-mother, June Carter Cash.
Rosanne began by sharing her thoughts on crafting and writing music. In turn, she asked the audience to collaborate and “craft” a new song from the original version. This posed the question: “What can we learn from the field of music as we creatively approach a collaboration between amateurs and auteurs, makers and users?”
Following are the original lyrics, as sung by Rosanne:
“Fair and Tender Ladies”
Come all you fair and tender ladies
Take warning how you court young men
They’re like a star on a summer morning
They first appear and then they’re gone
They’ll tell to you some loving story
And they make you think that they love you well
Then away they’ll go and court some other
And leave you there in grief to dwell
I wish I was on some tall mountain
Where the ivy rock is black as ink
I’d write a letter to my false true lover
Whose cheeks are like the morning pink
Oh, love is handsome, love is charming
And love is pretty while it’s new
but love grows cold, as love grows older
And fades away like morning dew
Each member of the audience rewrote a portion of the song’s four stanzas. A selection was chosen for Rosanne to sing along with the audience at the end of the discussion.
In the “crafted” version of “Fair and Tender Ladies,” the structure, melody, and context were innovatively altered, creating a new song.
Following are the “crafted” lyrics, as sung together by Rosanne and the entire audience:
“Fair and Tender Ladies”
Come all you strong and courageous ladies
Take note how you court your men
They’re like a firefly on a summer night
They first glow and then they’re gone
They’ll toss to you some fleeting story
And they hope you think that they know you well
Then again they’ll go and court some daydreams
And leave you there in peace to dwell
I wish I was on some tall moonbeam
Where the broken rock is black as night
I’d write a song to my false sweet lover
Whose kisses are like the distant pink
Oh, love is a feeling, love is a song
And love is an emotion while it’s new
But love grows high, as love grows tall
And falls away like sweet dew
Susan Cianciolo is an artist and clothing designer with extensive experience in design, production, and instruction. She studied fashion design in New York and Paris at Parsons School of Design and painting at Winchester School of Art. In her design career, she has acted as production director for Kim Gordon’s X-Girl clothing line and assistant collection designer at Badgley Mischka. Her RUN Collection, based upon the concept of collaboration, emphasized a certain skill or craft with each collection. She worked with Cone Denim on a full collection of pieces using their archives. The collaboration included shows in New York and Los Angeles and coincided with the release of her book, The Woman of The Crowd. Susan has also showcased her work in film with “1960’s Butterfly Girl.” She has also taught at Parsons School of Design in the Integrated Fashion Design Curriculum. She continues to show regularly on the New York fashion calendar and maintains a strong base of private and retail clients. An accomplished illustrator, Susan’s work is exhibited in museums around the world.
Born and bred in Pretoria, South Africa, Albertus Swanepoel moved from Johannesburg to New York City after a seven year career as a critically acclaimed fashion designer under his Quartus Manna label. In 1987 he won the Coty Award as top designer in his country.
In New York, Albertus trained as a milliner under Janine Galimard, who worked for Balenciaga in Paris in the 50's and 60's.
He assisted the well-known hat designer, Lola, for several years on a freelance basis. He also worked with theatrical milliner, Lynne Mackey, where he constructed hats for Broadway shows such as Kiss me Kate and Mamma Mia, as well as several operas and ballets.
In 2000, he briefly acted as Style Editor for Martha Stewart Weddings magazine.
In 2004, Albertus began collaborating with several New York designers for their runway presentations. He has since become known as the milliner to seek out during New York Fashion Week. He has worked with such designers as Marc by Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Thakoon, Carolina Herrera, Peter Som, Erin Fetherston, Rodarte, Diane Von Furstenberg, Alexander Wang, Tommy Hilfiger, Nathan Jenden, Costello Tagliapietra, Narciso Rodriquez, Richard Chai, Derek Lam, Suno, Bill Blass, DKNY, and Araks.
In 2006, he formed his own company, Albertus Swanepoel LLC, which designs and produces handmade hats for a select number of stores in the US and internationally. Albertus has received a number of honors, including being named as one of two runners-up for the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Award in 2008, a 2009 nomination for Swarovski CFDA Accessory Award, a 2010 WGSN Award nomination for Best Accessory Designer, and was named Accessory Designer of the Year during the 2010 African Fashion Week International. Additionally, Swanepoel’s work was featured in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s 2009 exhibit, “Hats: An Anthology.”